slowing down in Tanzania...

Tan-ZANE-eea, or Tan-zi-NEEA ... still not sure! But its really nice here. We’re staying at an organic herbal tea & spice farm resort just outside of the town Morogoro – we were “forced” to stay here (i.e. bend my rubber arm) because the handyman fixed our fuel pump – pumping the fuel from the big tank to the small driving tank. Staying the extra night here (three meals a day, luxury rooms, swimming pool etc) was a much better prospect than sucking diesel every day for the next 2 weeks.

A few days or ago, or a few weeks ago – we can’t really remember – we left our last campsite in Karonga, Malawi and headed to the border. The lake narrows and the mountains loom the further North you drive and driving into Tanzania was really beautiful – thick lush mountainous landscapes, and everyone looks neater and more fashionably dressed, and there are many many home farms along the road. Definately looks like more economic activity than Malawi, although its hidden in the Economic Indicies of each country (which is very interesting).

The border was fairly well organised and efficient, but I guess they can afford it with the various US dollar fees, visas, car import duties and 3^rd party insurance. And 30 minutes after getting into the country, our first police road block asked persistently about something for new year ... after ignoring the question a few times, intentionally not misunderstanding what he was saying, and saying no, and asking why, and asking for a receipt, and saying no ... I eventually gave him the crumpled up 200 Malawi Kwacha in my pocket (R 10). That was irritating, and added onto the border crossing sales activities (assistance, money changing, insurance, SIM cards, money changing, assistance, SIM cards) the 250km to Morogoro was just too far. So we settled in a coffee lodge in Mbeya. And we couldn’t leave for 2 days.  Our Illy coffee beans that we stocked up with from home were running low, so this was great timing.  We camped next to the lodges tennis court, and plugged our electricity into their room used for a gym (this lodge was clearly a good find).  With all the water and electricity we could ask for we straight away got the washing machine into overdrive and did about 4 loads of washing.  We enjoyed 2 days at the lodge, the kids found a big pile of clay bricks and built themselves a little house which they enjoyed picnic’s & playtime in.  We went on a family trail run through the forest to the coffee plantation, and made friends with two of the resident dogs who joined us back to our campsite.  When it was time to leave we went to unplug our plug only to find that it had totally burnt out!  Even the socket in the wall was destroyed!  Oops!

After a late departure from the lodge we drove towards Dar es Salaam. There was a lot of truck & bus traffic (as was expected) but the roads really are a bit narrow for two trucks to pass (did we mention that we broke the driver side mirror on a large truck’s mirrors coming the other way in Malawi?)... and we had heard stories of blind rise overtaking etc. So it was a little stressful, but of course everything was fine. It’s nice not being the slowest car on the road, and its also nice not being able to drive 100km/hour.

We stopped at a town called Iringa with the recommendation of a campsite on the river.  We were pretty bummed because on our drive there our fuel pump broke, 2 of the cupboard locks broke so things were pretty scattered in the back of the truck, and driving into the campsite we broke our front door step on a rock on the side of the narrow road.  After meeting a friendly family at the campsite who were staying there for a month to learn Swahili (they work a a pilot for Mission Aviation Fellowship), we decided to stay for 2 nights.  Their two kids were exactly a year younger than our two kids so they clicked straight away and fun was had by all!  After recovering well and checking the rest of our cupboard locks, we were on our way again.

On our way to Morogoro we stopped for a drink & a bite to eat at “the white house” which was pretty decent, and the highlight was definitely driving through the Mikumi Game Reserve. Its a bit like the N1 going straight through the Kruger Park for 50 km! With nothing different from the normal highway except a slightly lower speed limit. Laura saw the first wildlife – a baboon, and shortly after that some buck. Then it got even better as we were cruising on the trans Africa highway – a herd of giraffes, a baby elephant right next to the road, and then a small herd (4 or 6?) of elephants just off the highway. It really was fun trying to spot the game.

A few km’s after the diesel sucking adventure, we got to the town Morogoro and phoned a nice sounding lodge with green grass (thanks Lonely Planet) to ask whether we could camp. Language problems. When we arrived they insisted we stay in one of the cottages, as it was all prepared for us.  We only realised afterwards that they had mistaken us for another family that were arriving that day.  We took the opportunity though, and the situation was sorted out after the real guests had arrived and 2 more plates were set out at the dinner table that evening.  ... we’re suspecting $100 a night, and if we’re surprised it’s going to be on the upside! That’s quite a bit more than our normal R 50 per night!

The best part of all of this was how we got to the farm lodge (following the directions in the Lonely Plant)... we drove 10km out of town, then a few km’s down a track only to arrive at a little rusty metal bridge over quite a flowing river with a white sign saying “2000kg only, cross at your own risk”. We probably would have done it, but the bridge wouldn’t have been wide enough for us, let along strong enough for our 8 200 kgs. So the manager came to see us, and sent us with the handyman back into town and on the back roads ... 40 minutes later, through villages (as in right in front of their doorsteps, making sure not to take out their roofs with the truck!) through some sand and mud and bumps and turns. It was perfect, and we arrived to have dinner with the other guests who arrived shortly after us.

And then it rained, and poured! And the dog bit Xan. It was way past their bedtime, and they had managed dinner very well. Xan was a little bit too friendly with the resting grumpy old dog (we think he tried to kiss him) and the dog snapped at him. You’re never too sure whether the cry is fright or pain, but this one was both! After a minute you could see where the dogs teeth had scraped from his one cheek to the other, with a small hole in the bridge of his nose! That was obviously the end of the day for us all.

The next day (this morning) we made sure that Xan wasn’t affected, and he was very happy to be friendly to the dog again – so either he’s very brave and understands how a healthy respect works, or he’s incredibly dumb and can’t remember why hes got a little bruise & cut on his nose! (for all the other moms & grandmothers out there, the other guest at the farm who studied to be a Vet agrees that Tetanus is extremely unlikely for such a small cut. Germaline will be fine).

We’ll be leaving here tomorrow, after a gourmet breakfast of course, ready for a day of driving – Excited for what Northern Tanzania has in store for us!